STEEP STANDING WAVES AGAINST A VERTICAL WALL ON A SLOPING BEACH

2011 ◽  
pp. 1762-1769
Author(s):  
W. KIOKA ◽  
T. KITANO ◽  
M. OKAJIMA ◽  
N. MIYABE
Keyword(s):  
Vertical Wall ◽  
Standing Waves ◽  
Sloping Beach

Mass transport under standing waves over a sloping beach

2012 ◽  
Vol 701 ◽  
pp. 460-472 ◽  
Author(s):  
Pietro Scandura ◽  
Enrico Foti ◽  
Carla Faraci
Keyword(s):  
Reynolds Number ◽  
Free Surface ◽  
Mass Transport ◽  
Cell Structure ◽  
Standing Waves ◽  
Reynolds Numbers ◽  
Sea Waves ◽  
Small Reynolds Numbers ◽  
Sloping Beach

AbstractThis paper deals with the mass transport induced by sea waves propagating over a sloping beach and fully reflected from a wall. It is shown that for moderate slopes the classical recirculation cell structure holds for small Reynolds numbers only. When the Reynolds number is large, the cells interact among themselves giving rise to the merging of the negative cells and the confinement of the positive ones near the bottom. Under such circumstances the fluid moves onshore near the bottom and offshore near the free surface. The seaward decrease of the vorticity produced at the bottom appears to be the reason for the merging phenomenon.

Experimental Investigation of Tsunami Bore Forces on Vertical Walls

2013 ◽  
Vol 135 (2) ◽  
Author(s):  
I. N. Robertson ◽  
K. Paczkowski ◽  
H. R. Riggs ◽  
A. Mohamed
Keyword(s):  
Vertical Wall ◽  
State University ◽  
Flat Bottom ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Pressure Distributions ◽  
Vertical Walls ◽  
Series Of Experiments ◽  
Maximum Impact Force ◽  
Sloping Beach

A series of experiments have been carried out in the large wave flume (LWF) at Oregon State University to quantify tsunami bore forces on structures. These tests included “offshore” solitary waves, with heights up to 1.3 m, that traveled over a flat bottom, up a sloping beach, and breaking onto a flat reef. Standing water depths on the reef varied from 0.05 m to 0.3 m. Resulting bores on the reef measured up to approximately 0.8 m. After propagating along the reef, the bores struck a vertical wall. The resulting forces and pressures on the wall were measured. The test setup in the LWF is described, and the experimental results are reported. The results include forces and pressure distributions. Results show that the bores propagated with a Froude number of approximately 2 and that the forces follow Froude scaling. Finally, a design formula for the maximum impact force is given. The formula is shown to be an improvement over existing formulas found in the literature.

scholarly journals ON THE OVERLAND FLOW OF TSUNAMI AND EFFECTIVENESS OF WALL AS A COUNTER MEASURE

1968 ◽  
Vol 1 (11) ◽  
pp. 58 ◽  
Author(s):  
Toshio Iwasaki ◽  
Hiroyoshi Togashi
Keyword(s):  
Overland Flow ◽  
Vertical Wall ◽  
Large Magnitude ◽  
Populated Area ◽  
Running Water ◽  
Tsunami Waves ◽  
Public Investments ◽  
Sloping Beach ◽  
Theoretical Results ◽  
Horizontal Area

When a tsunami of large magnitude strikes a coast line, various kinds of disaster such as loss of lives, properties or public investments are caused by inundation of tsunami over nearly horizontal area. Although tsunami runup has been investigated for the sloping beach, these populated area is bordered on sea by a vertical wall such as a quaywall or a highway revetment. In this paper, transformation of tsunami waves at a vertical quaywall is analysed using U-C characteristics and overland flow is treated. Effectiveness of a vertical land dike aiming to stop running water is investigated also. Theoretical results are verified by experiments.

scholarly journals NUMERICAL ANALYSES ON PROPAGATION OF NONLINEAR INTERNAL WAVES

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 24
Author(s):  
Kei Yamashita ◽  
Taro Kakinuma ◽  
Keisuke Nakayama
Keyword(s):  
Internal Wave ◽  
Internal Waves ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Wave Equations ◽  
Vertical Wall ◽  
Submerged Breakwater ◽  
Wave Trough ◽  
Water Region ◽  
Wave Nonlinearity ◽  
Sloping Beach

A set of nonlinear surface/internal-wave equations, which have been derived on the basis of the variational principle without any assumptions concerning wave nonlinearity and dispersion, is applied to compare numerical results with experimental data of surface/internal waves propagating through a shallow- or a deep-water region in a tank. Internal waves propagating over a submerged breakwater or a uniformly sloping beach are also simulated. The internal progressive wave shows remarkable shoaling when the interface reaches the critical level, after which physical variables including wave celerity become unstable near the wave-breaking point. In the case of the internal-wave trough reflecting at the vertical wall, the vertical velocities of water particles in the vicinity of the interface are different from that of the moving interface at the wall near the wave breaking, which means that the kinematic boundary condition on the interface of trough has been unsatisfied.

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