scholarly journals A Multimodal Wave Spectrum–Based Approach for Statistical Downscaling of Local Wave Climate

2017 ◽  
Vol 47 (2) ◽  
pp. 375-386 ◽  
Author(s):  
C. A. Hegermiller ◽  
J. A. A. Antolinez ◽  
A. Rueda ◽  
P. Camus ◽  
J. Perez ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Statistical Downscaling ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Ocean Basin ◽  
Coastal Hazards ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Bulk Wave ◽  
Wave Parameters ◽  
Local Wave ◽  
Wave Conditions

AbstractCharacterization of wave climate by bulk wave parameters is insufficient for many coastal studies, including those focused on assessing coastal hazards and long-term wave climate influences on coastal evolution. This issue is particularly relevant for studies using statistical downscaling of atmospheric fields to local wave conditions, which are often multimodal in large ocean basins (e.g., Pacific Ocean). Swell may be generated in vastly different wave generation regions, yielding complex wave spectra that are inadequately represented by a single set of bulk wave parameters. Furthermore, the relationship between atmospheric systems and local wave conditions is complicated by variations in arrival time of wave groups from different parts of the basin. Here, this study addresses these two challenges by improving upon the spatiotemporal definition of the atmospheric predictor used in the statistical downscaling of local wave climate. The improved methodology separates the local wave spectrum into “wave families,” defined by spectral peaks and discrete generation regions, and relates atmospheric conditions in distant regions of the ocean basin to local wave conditions by incorporating travel times computed from effective energy flux across the ocean basin. When applied to locations with multimodal wave spectra, including Southern California and Trujillo, Peru, the new methodology improves the ability of the statistical model to project significant wave height, peak period, and direction for each wave family, retaining more information from the full wave spectrum. This work is the base of statistical downscaling by weather types, which has recently been applied to coastal flooding and morphodynamic applications.

Gap-Filling and Predicting Wave Parameters Using Support Vector Regression Method

2011 ◽  
Author(s):  
Maziar Golestani ◽  
Mostafa Zeinoddini
Keyword(s):  
Support Vector Regression ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Rational Design ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Support Vector ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Wave Parameters ◽  
Data Gaps

Knowledge of relevant oceanographic parameters is of utmost importance in the rational design of coastal structures and ports. Therefore, an accurate prediction of wave parameters is especially important for safety and economic reasons. Recently, statistical learning methods, such as Support Vector Regression (SVR) have been successfully employed by researchers in problems such as lake water level predictions, and significant wave height prediction. The current study reports potential application of a SVR approach to predict the wave spectra and significant wave height. Also the capability of the model to fill data gaps was tested using different approaches. Concurrent wind and wave records (standard meteorological and spectral density data) from 4 stations in 2003, 2007, 2008 and 2009 were used both for the training the SVR system and its verification. The choice of these four locations facilitated the comparison of model performances in different geographical areas. The SVR model was then used to obtain predictions for the wave spectra and also time series of wave parameters (separately for each station) such as its Hs and Tp from spectra and wind records. New approach was used to predict wave spectra comparing to similar studies. Reasonably well correlation was found between the predicted and measured wave parameters. The SVR model was first trained and tested using various methods for selecting training data. Also different values for SVM parameters (e.g. tolerance of termination criterion, cost, and gamma in kernel function) were tested. The best possible results were obtained using a Unix shell script (in Linux) which automatically implements different values for different input parameters and finds the best regression by calculating statistical scores like correlation of coefficient, RMSE, bias and scatter index. Finally for a better understanding of the results, Quantile-Quantile plots were produced. The results show that SVR can be successfully used for prediction of Hs and wave spectrum out of a series of wind and spectral wave parameters inputs. Also it was noticed that SVR is an efficient tool to be used when data gaps are present in the data.

Projected Changes in the Occurrence of Extreme and Rogue Waves in Future Climate in the North Atlantic

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Odin Gramstad ◽  
Elzbieta Bitner-Gregersen ◽  
Erik Vanem
Keyword(s):  
North Atlantic ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Rogue Waves ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Future Climate ◽  
The North ◽  
Wave Parameters ◽  
The Future ◽  
The North Atlantic

We investigate the future wave climate in the North Atlantic with respect to extreme events as well as on wave parameters that have previously not been considered in much details in the perspective of wave climate change, such as those associated with occurrence of rogue waves. A number of future wave projections is obtained by running the third generation wave model WAM with wind input derived from several global circulation models. In each case the wave model has been run for the 30-year historical period 1971–2000 and the future period 2071–2100 assuming the two different future climate scenarios RCP 4.5 and RCP 8.5. The wave model runs have been carried out by the Norwegian Meteorological Institute in Bergen, and the climate model result are taken from The Coupled Model Intercomparison Project phase 5 - CMIP5. In addition to the standard wave parameters such as significant wave height and peak period the wave model runs provided the full two-dimensional wave spectrum. This has enabled the study of a larger set of wave parameters. The focus of the present study is the projected future changes in occurrence of extreme sea states and extreme and rogue waves. The investigations are limited to parameters related to this in a few selected locations in the North Atlantic. Our results show that there are large uncertainties in many of the parameters considered in this study, and in many cases the different climate models and different model scenarios provide contradicting results with respect to the predicted change from past to future climate. There are, however, some situations for which a clearer tendency is observed.

scholarly journals ENSEMBLE WAVE CLIMATE PROJECTIONS BASED ON CMIP5 MODELS

2020 ◽  
pp. 23
Author(s):  
Nobuhito Mori ◽  
Joao Morim ◽  
Mark Hemer ◽  
Xiaolan L. Wang ◽  
COWCLIP Project
Keyword(s):  
Wave Climate ◽  
Global Scale ◽  
Coastal Hazards ◽  
Cmip5 Models ◽  
Climate Projections ◽  
Storm Frequency ◽  
Dominant Process ◽  
Wave Conditions ◽  
Ocean Wave Climate

A warming climate has the potential to not only raise sea level but also exacerbate coastal hazards due to changes in storm frequency and intensity. Along open coasts where wave energy is often the dominant process dictating shoreline positions, changes in mean and extreme wave conditions are likely to alter long-term geomorphic evolution patterns. The Coordinated Ocean Wave Climate Project (COWCLIP) is to provide infrastructure to support a systematic, community-based framework that allows for validation and inter-comparison of wave projections. Here, the primary aims are to 1) present quantitative evaluations of projected global scale wave conditions and 2) to present the framework and preliminary results of regional wave modeling that will provide projections of nearshore wave conditions for use in long-term geomorphic change analyzes.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/Y6BEHq5wZXw

Transferring Wave Conditions From Offshore to Nearshore: The Case of Nordfold

2014 ◽  
Author(s):  
Christos N. Stefanakos ◽  
Grim Eidnes
Keyword(s):  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Third Generation ◽  
Satellite Altimeter ◽  
Northern Norway ◽  
Area Of Interest ◽  
Wave Parameters ◽  
Long Time ◽  
Wave Conditions ◽  
Offshore Wave

In the present work, an analysis of the wave climate in Nord-fold area in the northern Norway has been performed. The analysis was carried out by transferring offshore wave conditions to the nearshore area of interest by successive applications of the well-known third-generation wave model SWAN. The area presents a particular interest, since it has a very deep and complex bathymetry near the coast and a very complicated coastline. Analysis has been carried out using a very detailed bathymetry of the area provided by the Norwegian Mapping Authority. Moreover, as input, five year long time series of directional spectra of offshore wave parameters have been used, after being calibrated using the best available satellite altimeter dataset.

scholarly journals Present Wave Climate in the Bay of Biscay: Spatiotemporal Variability and Trends from 1958 to 2001

2012 ◽  
Vol 25 (6) ◽  
pp. 2020-2039 ◽  
Author(s):  
Elodie Charles ◽  
Déborah Idier ◽  
Jérôme Thiébot ◽  
Gonéri Le Cozannet ◽  
Rodrigo Pedreros ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Interannual Variability ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Coastal Hazards ◽  
Spatiotemporal Variability ◽  
Bay Of Biscay ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Extreme Wave ◽  
Wave Fields ◽  
Wave Conditions

Abstract Climate change impacts on wave conditions can increase the risk of offshore and coastal hazards. The present paper investigates wave climate multidecadal trends and interannual variability in the Bay of Biscay during the past decades (1958–2001). Wave fields are computed with a wave modeling system based on the WAVEWATCH III code and forced by 40-yr European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts Re-Analysis (ERA-40) wind fields. It provides both an extended spatiotemporal domain and a refined spatial resolution over the Bay of Biscay. The validation of the wave model is based on 11 buoys, allowing for the use of computed wave fields in the analysis of mean and extreme wave height trends and variability. Wave height, period, and direction are examined for a large array of wave conditions (by seasons, high percentiles of wave heights, different periods). Several trends for recent periods are identified, notably an increase of summer significant wave height, a southerly shift of autumn extreme wave direction, and a northerly shift of spring extreme wave direction. Wave fields exhibit high interannual variability, with a normalized standard deviation of seasonal wave height greater than 15% in wintertime. The relationship with Northern Hemisphere teleconnection patterns is investigated at regional scale, especially along the coast. It highlights a strong correlation between local wave conditions and the North Atlantic Oscillation and the east Atlantic pattern indices. This relationship is further investigated at the local scale with a new method based on bivariate diagrams, allowing the identification of the type of waves (swell, storm, intermediate waves) impacted. These results are discussed in terms of comparison with previous studies and coastal risk implications.

WAVE CLIMATE OF THE BLACK SEA’S COASTAL WATERS DURING THE LAST THREE DECADES

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Fedor Gippius ◽  
Fedor Gippius ◽  
Stanislav Myslenkov ◽  
Stanislav Myslenkov ◽  
Elena Stoliarova ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wind Speed ◽  
Cell Size ◽  
Coastal Waters ◽  
Wind Wave ◽  
Spatial Scales ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Computational Grid ◽  
Coastal Areas ◽  
Wave Parameters

This study is focused on the alterations and typical features of the wind wave climate of the Black Sea’s coastal waters since 1979 till nowadays. Wind wave parameters were calculated by means of the 3rd-generation numerical spectral wind wave model SWAN, which is widely used on various spatial scales – both coastal waters and open seas. Data on wind speed and direction from the NCEP CFSR reanalysis were used as forcing. The computations were performed on an unstructured computational grid with cell size depending on the distance from the shoreline. Modeling results were applied to evaluate the main characteristics of the wind wave in various coastal areas of the sea.

scholarly journals Future behavior of wind wave extremes due to climate change

2021 ◽  
Vol 11 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Hector Lobeto ◽  
Melisa Menendez ◽  
Iñigo J. Losada
Keyword(s):  
Climate Change ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Climate Change Scenarios ◽  
Return Periods ◽  
Extreme Wave ◽  
Future Behavior ◽  
Climate Simulations ◽  
Wave Conditions ◽  
Ne Pacific ◽  
Change In Mean

AbstractExtreme waves will undergo changes in the future when exposed to different climate change scenarios. These changes are evaluated through the analysis of significant wave height (Hs) return values and are also compared with annual mean Hs projections. Hourly time series are analyzed through a seven-member ensemble of wave climate simulations and changes are estimated in Hs for return periods from 5 to 100 years by the end of the century under RCP4.5 and RCP8.5 scenarios. Despite the underlying uncertainty that characterizes extremes, we obtain robust changes in extreme Hs over more than approximately 25% of the ocean surface. The results obtained conclude that increases cover wider areas and are larger in magnitude than decreases for higher return periods. The Southern Ocean is the region where the most robust increase in extreme Hs is projected, showing local increases of over 2 m regardless the analyzed return period under RCP8.5 scenario. On the contrary, the tropical north Pacific shows the most robust decrease in extreme Hs, with local decreases of over 1.5 m. Relevant divergences are found in several ocean regions between the projected behavior of mean and extreme wave conditions. For example, an increase in Hs return values and a decrease in annual mean Hs is found in the SE Indian, NW Atlantic and NE Pacific. Therefore, an extrapolation of the expected change in mean wave conditions to extremes in regions presenting such divergences should be adopted with caution, since it may lead to misinterpretation when used for the design of marine structures or in the evaluation of coastal flooding and erosion.

scholarly journals Optimizing the Power Take Off of a Wave Energy Converter With Regard to the Wave Climate

2005 ◽  
Vol 128 (1) ◽  
pp. 56-64 ◽  
Author(s):  
Gaelle Duclos ◽  
Aurelien Babarit ◽  
Alain H. Clément
Keyword(s):  
Wave Energy ◽  
Simple Wave ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Wave Energy Converter ◽  
Optimal Parameters ◽  
Energy Converter ◽  
Wave Energy Converters ◽  
Classical Wave ◽  
Project Site ◽  
Wave Conditions

Considered as a source of renewable energy, wave is a resource featuring high variability at all time scales. Furthermore wave climate also changes significantly from place to place. Wave energy converters are very often tuned to suit the more frequent significant wave period at the project site. In this paper we show that optimizing the device necessitates accounting for all possible wave conditions weighted by their annual occurrence frequency, as generally given by the classical wave climate scatter diagrams. A generic and very simple wave energy converter is considered here. It is shown how the optimal parameters can be different considering whether all wave conditions are accounted for or not, whether the device is controlled or not, whether the productive motion is limited or not. We also show how they depend on the area where the device is to be deployed, by applying the same method to three sites with very different wave climate.

scholarly journals OBSERVATION OF DIRECTIONAL WAVE SPECTRA AND REFLECTION COEFFICIENT OF BREAKWATER IN A HARBOR

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 3
Author(s):  
Tetsunori Ohshimo ◽  
Kosuke Kondo ◽  
Tsunehiro Sekimoto
Keyword(s):  
Reflection Coefficient ◽  
Wave Diffraction ◽  
Maximum Likelihood Method ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Field Investigation ◽  
Likelihood Method ◽  
Electromagnetic Current ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Field Investigations ◽  
Directional Wave

Field investigations were performed in order to show the effect of wave diffraction by breakwaters through directional wave spectra measurements in a harbor, and to estimate the reflection coefficient by resolving the incident and reflected wave energy in front of a composite type breakwater. Combinations of an ultrasonic wave gage (USW) and an electromagnetic current meter (EMC) were used to measure the synchronized data of the water surface elevation and two horizontal velocities. The EMLM (Extended Maximum Likelihood Method) was applied for the calculation of the directional wave spectrum, and the modified EMLM for an incident and reflection wave field was applied for the estimation of the reflection coefficient. Through the estimated directional wave spectra, the effect of wave diffraction by breakwaters were discussed and the reflection coefficient was estimated at about 0.9. As a result, the applicability of the field investigation method and the modified EMLM were verified.

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