Linear Wave Propagation

2021 ◽  
pp. 1-45
Author(s):  
Satyanad Kichenassamy
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Linear Wave Propagation

The coastal refraction-diffraction wave propagation model

1995 ◽  
Vol 17 (4) ◽  
pp. 6-12
Author(s):  
Nguyen Tien Dat ◽  
Dinh Van Manh ◽  
Nguyen Minh Son
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Field Data ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Propagation Model ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Diffraction Effect ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Diffraction Wave ◽  
Linear Wave Propagation ◽  
Wave Propagation Model

A mathematical model on linear wave propagation toward shore is chosen and corresponding software is built. The wave transformation outside and inside the surf zone is considered including the diffraction effect. The model is tested by laboratory and field data and gave reasonables results.

scholarly journals Assimilating Global Wave Model Predictions and Deep-Water Wave Observations in Nearshore Swell Predictions

2017 ◽  
Vol 34 (8) ◽  
pp. 1823-1836 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sean C. Crosby ◽  
Bruce D. Cornuelle ◽  
William C. O’Reilly ◽  
Robert T. Guza
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
High Resolution ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Propagation Model ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Time Lags ◽  
Energy Propagation ◽  
Nearshore Processes ◽  
Model Predictions ◽  
Linear Wave Propagation

AbstractNearshore wave predictions with high resolution in space and time are needed for boating safety, to assess flood risk, and to support nearshore processes research. This study presents methods for improving regional nearshore predictions of swell-band wave energy (0.04–0.09 Hz) by assimilating local buoy observations into a linear wave propagation model with a priori guidance from global WAVEWATCH III (WW3) model predictions. Linear wave propagation, including depth-induced refraction and shoaling, and travel time lags, is modeled with self-adjoint backward ray tracing techniques. The Bayesian assimilation yields smooth, high-resolution offshore wave directional spectra that are consistent with WW3, and with offshore and local buoy observations. Case studies in the Southern California Bight (SCB) confirm that the nearshore predictions at independent (nonassimilated) buoy sites are improved by assimilation compared with predictions driven with WW3 or with a single offshore buoy. These assimilation techniques, valid in regions and frequency bands where wave energy propagation is mostly linear, use significantly less computational resources than nonlinear models and variational methods, and could be a useful component of a larger regional assimilation program. Where buoy locations have historically been selected to meet local needs, these methods can aid in the design of regional buoy arrays by quantifying the regional skill improvement for a given buoy observation and identifying both high-value and redundant observations. Assimilation techniques also identify likely forward model error in the Santa Barbara Channel, where permanent observations or model corrections are needed.

Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document