scholarly journals A Study of the Wave Transformation Passing over an Artificial Reef Using SPH Method

2013 ◽  
Vol 7 (2) ◽  
pp. 126-133 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tamon SUWA ◽  
Tomokazu NAKAGAWA ◽  
Keisuke MURAKAMI
2018 ◽  
Vol 63 (9) ◽  
pp. 865-874 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yongxue Wang ◽  
Bing Ren ◽  
Hongjie Wen ◽  
Xiang Zhang

1995 ◽  
Vol 17 (4) ◽  
pp. 6-12
Author(s):  
Nguyen Tien Dat ◽  
Dinh Van Manh ◽  
Nguyen Minh Son

A mathematical model on linear wave propagation toward shore is chosen and corresponding software is built. The wave transformation outside and inside the surf zone is considered including the diffraction effect. The model is tested by laboratory and field data and gave reasonables results.


Author(s):  
Almério José Venâncio Pains Soares Pamplona ◽  
Karoliny Freitas Silva ◽  
Cláudio Bucar Filho ◽  
Joel Vasco

Author(s):  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Boris Divinskiy ◽  
...  

On the base of experimental data it was revealed that type of wave breaking depends on wave asymmetry against the vertical axis at wave breaking point. The asymmetry of waves is defined by spectral structure of waves: by the ratio between amplitudes of first and second nonlinear harmonics and by phase shift between them. The relative position of nonlinear harmonics is defined by a stage of nonlinear wave transformation and the direction of energy transfer between the first and second harmonics. The value of amplitude of the second nonlinear harmonic in comparing with first harmonic is significantly more in waves, breaking by spilling type, than in waves breaking by plunging type. The waves, breaking by plunging type, have the crest of second harmonic shifted forward to one of the first harmonic, so the waves have "saw-tooth" shape asymmetrical to vertical axis. In the waves, breaking by spilling type, the crests of harmonic coincides and these waves are symmetric against the vertical axis. It was found that limit height of breaking waves in empirical criteria depends on type of wave breaking, spectral peak period and a relation between wave energy of main and second nonlinear wave harmonics. It also depends on surf similarity parameter defining conditions of nonlinear wave transformations above inclined bottom.


Author(s):  
Nobutoshi MIYAZATO ◽  
Eizo NAKAZA ◽  
Satoshi TANAKA ◽  
Masahiro FUKUMORI ◽  
Carolyn SCHAAB
Keyword(s):  

1992 ◽  
Vol 35 (1) ◽  
pp. 1-19 ◽  
Author(s):  
Xiping Yu ◽  
Masahiko Isobe ◽  
Akira Watanabe

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