scholarly journals Suitable range for ease allowance and appearance of women’s shirts

2020 ◽  
Vol ISASE2020 (0) ◽  
pp. 1-2
Author(s):  
Yuika Sakata ◽  
KyoungOk Kim ◽  
Masayuki Takatera
Keyword(s):  
2021 ◽  
Vol 133 ◽  
pp. 103552
Author(s):  
Mulat Alubel Abtew ◽  
Maria Kulińska ◽  
Xianyi Zeng ◽  
Pascal Bruniaux

2017 ◽  
Vol 29 (1) ◽  
pp. 47-59 ◽  
Author(s):  
Bingfei Gu ◽  
Wenping Lin ◽  
Junqiang Su ◽  
Bugao Xu

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to focus on solving a fit problem associated with female pants by taking into account the body shape of crotch curves. The patterns of customized pants could be altered with the distance ease (DE) distribution along the crotch curve. Design/methodology/approach Four pairs of pants with different crotch ease allowances were designed based on a standard mannequin, and used to study how the DE was distributed along the crotch curve at a given ease allowance. The unclothed mannequin and the four pants, which were dressed, respectively, on the mannequin, were scanned consecutively by a body imaging system. The crotch curve of the unclothed mannequin was superimposed on that of each clothed mannequin to exhibit the differences in radial distance so that the DE distribution could be measured. Findings Through the regression analysis, the prediction models were established to express the relationships between the DE and the ease allowance. These models could be used to estimate the DEs along a crotch curve to reflect its asymmetrical shape when a total allowance was selected. The crotch curves on the pant patterns could be then modified by adding the predicted DEs to the scanned crotch curve. Originality/value This study demonstrated a new pattern alteration approach to achieve a better fit for customized female pants based on the 3D scanning data. This approach can be extended to pattern alterations for men’s pants and other shape-critical products.


2019 ◽  
Vol 6 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
In Hwa Kim ◽  
Yun Ja Nam ◽  
Hyunsook Han
Keyword(s):  

2019 ◽  
Vol 32 (2) ◽  
pp. 255-270
Author(s):  
Zhenbin Jiang ◽  
Juan Guo ◽  
Xinyu Zhang

Purpose A common pipeline of apparel design and simulation is adjusting 2D apparel patterns, putting them onto a virtual human model and performing 3D physically based simulation. However, manually adjusting 2D apparel patterns and performing simulations require repetitive adjustments and trials in order to achieve satisfactory results. To support future made-to-fit apparel design and manufacturing, efficient tools for fast custom design purposes are desired. The purpose of this paper is to propose a method to automatically adjust 2D apparel patterns and rapidly generate acustom apparel style for a given human model. Design/methodology/approach The authors first pre-define a set of constraints using feature points, feature lines and ease allowance for existing apparels and human models. The authors formulate the apparel fitting to a human model, as a process of optimization using these predefined constraints. Then, the authors iteratively solve the problem by minimizing the total fitting metric. Findings The authors observed that through reusing existing apparel styles, the process of designing apparels can be greatly simplified. The authors used a new fitting function to measure the geometric fitting of corresponding feature points/lines between apparels and a human model. Then, the optimized 2D patterns are automatically obtained by minimizing the matching function. The authors’ experiments show that the authors’ approach can increase the reusability of existing apparel styles and improve apparel design efficiency. Research limitations/implications There are some limitations. First, in order to achieve interactive performance, the authors’ current 3D simulation does not detect collision within or between adjacent apparel surfaces. Second, the authors’ did not consider multiple layer apparels. It is non-trivial to define ease allowance between multiple layers. Originality/value The authors use a set of constraints such as ease allowance, feature points, feature lines, etc. for existing apparels and human models. The authors define a few new fitting functions using these pre-specified constraints. During physics-driven simulation, the authors iteratively minimize these fitting functions.


Author(s):  
Bingfei Gu ◽  
Junqiang Su ◽  
Guolian Liu ◽  
Bugao Xu

Purpose The goal of this study was to realize pattern alterations for women’s suits by using the spatial distribution of distance ease in the body-garment interface. Design/methodology/approach An unclothed mannequin and the mannequin clothed with seven suits having different ease allowances were scanned by a 3D body scanner respectively. The image of the unclothed mannequin was then superimposed on that of each clothed mannequin (suit) to exhibit the differences in ease distribution among these suits. The distance eases at ten selected body landmarks were determined by measuring the gaps between the body and suit surfaces. Findings The mathematical models of ease distributions were built through the regression analysis to predict the distance ease with a given ease allowance. After the verification with the actual measurements, these ease distribution models could provide localized distance eases for alternating pattern pieces to ensure a specified ease allowance. Originality/value In order to realize the automatic generation of garment patterns, the ease distribution between a human body and a garment is crucial because ease is one of the determinants for garment fit. This study demonstrated a new approach of automatic pattern alteration based on 3D scanned data to accelerate the pattern making process for women’s suits with customized ease allowance.


2016 ◽  
Vol 87 (17) ◽  
pp. 2133-2145
Author(s):  
Zheng Liu ◽  
Fengyuan Zou ◽  
Qing Zhan ◽  
Bugao Xu

As basic protective clothing, a chest wader needs to be worn by fishermen during wading work. Its thermal and moisture performance would directly influence fishermen’s comfort and health. In order to increase the thermal-moisture comfort for fishermen, this research aimed to design a new lining chest wader and to carry out both subjective and objective evaluations on its comfort properties. By simulating moisture absorption under a hydraulic pressure environment, we tested the water absorption and conductivity of the selected fabrics and water-absorbent resin materials, and used an appropriate combination of the fabric and the resin to cover different sweating areas of the human body. Ten subjects were recruited to conduct the wearing test on the chest wader to evaluate its thermal-moisture performance. The objective evaluation involved tracking the changes in temperature and relative humidity at four body parts when a participant wore the chest wader, while the subjective evaluation included a questionnaire about the wearing experience on the thermal-moisture comfort and operation convenience. The experimental results showed that the new lining enhanced the comfort significantly. Compared with the common chest wader, the new lining reduced the relative humidity of chest wader on average by 30% approximately, with the largest improvement being at the calf, followed by the thigh and crotch. The thermal-moisture performance of the chest wader was also influenced by the hydraulic pressure of the working environment and the ease allowance to the wearing body.


2019 ◽  
Vol 31 (6) ◽  
pp. 729-740 ◽  
Author(s):  
Agnė Lagė ◽  
Kristina Ancutienė

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to investigate basic block pattern modification according to fabric used and the mismatch between 2D and 3D measure lines at bust, waist and hip girths when ease allowance is changed uniformly. Design/methodology/approach For the investigation, virtual try-on software Modaris 3D Fit (CAD Lectra) was used. The straight shape dress fitting was done using seven cotton and cotton blended plain weave fabrics. After virtual try-on, the mismatch d (dbust, dwaist, dhip) between 2D and 3D measure lines was measured in order to determine base pattern adjustments using different fabrics. Findings It was found that the position and length of 3D measure lines at bust, waist and hip girths does not match the position and length of corresponding lines in 2D base patterns after virtual try-on due to fabrics deformation, which is related to mechanical properties. It was proved that derived linear equations presenting a relation between mismatch and ease allowance values could be used for basic block pattern modification that 3D and 2D measure lines would coincide during clothing try-on. Research limitations/implications This research is limited to cotton/cotton blended woven fabrics and straight dress; therefore, other fabric types and other clothing could be investigated in the future to expand data basis. Practical implications The main practical point of the proposed method is that in order to obtain particular 3D ease value in a garment, it can be calculated from 2D ease allowance value and the fabric’s tensile properties using linear equations. The basic block patterns could be modified using this method not only for tested fabrics but also for other fabrics with similar composition, structural and mechanical properties. 3D ease values in garment can be easily checked by using virtual try-on technology without production of real prototypes. The method is applicable for making ready-to-wear or individually tailored clothing. Originality/value The proposed method in this paper presented opportunity to modify the basic block patterns of the dress according to the fabric’s tensile properties and 2D ease allowance. The basic block patterns could be modified according to presented linear functions for each tested fabric. The application of this method can fully ensure the interaction between the garment 2D patterns to 3D garment so that a desired 3D garment fitting effect to the body can easily be satisfied by the adjustment of particular fabric characteristics. It offers further possibilities, especially with developing virtual try-on technologies.


2008 ◽  
Vol 20 (3) ◽  
pp. 161-173 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yu Chen ◽  
Xianyi Zeng ◽  
Michel Happiette ◽  
Pascal Bruniaux ◽  
Royer Ng ◽  
...  

Author(s):  
Y. Chen ◽  
X. zeng ◽  
M. Happiette ◽  
P. Bruniaux ◽  
R. Ng ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  

2018 ◽  
Vol 22 (4) ◽  
pp. 527-539
Author(s):  
Niina Hernández ◽  
Heikki Mattila ◽  
Lena Berglin

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to use a systematic model for detecting misfit between the garment and the target group. Design/methodology/approach Using an empirical–analytical methodology, the systematic model was tested. The input data were run through the model to generate the output data, which were analysed, including basic statistics. The purpose of the analysis was to detect misfit and improve the garment measurement chart. This procedure was repeated until a clear result was reached. Findings The result of this study is an optimised garment measurement chart, which considers the garment’s ease, different sizes/proportions in relation to a target group. The results show that it is possible to use a systematic model to define the shortcomings of a garment´s range of sizes and proportions. Research limitations/implications Further studies are needed to verify the results of the theoretical garment fit and their values in relation to real garment fit. Practical implications If the systematic model is implemented to improve the theoretical garment fit, this may have effects on the available garment sizes and its proportions, resulting in increased theoretical garment fit for the target group. Originality/value The paper presents a systematic model for detecting and eliminating theoretical fitting; the model includes both garment ease allowance and defined points of misfit.


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