scholarly journals WATER-WAVE INTERACTION IN THE SURF ZONE

1974 ◽  
Vol 1 (14) ◽  
pp. 28
Author(s):  
D. Howell Peregrine

In the surf zone on beaches, there are strong effects which cannot be described by linear equations. This paper describes a number of wave interactions that can take place, using the simplest set of equations that give an adequate qualitative description. The results are of value for comparison with detailed experimental measurements and for gaining understanding of surf zone processes.

1971 ◽  
Vol 6 (1) ◽  
pp. 53-72 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. J. Galloway ◽  
H. Kim

In this paper, the coupled-mode equations and coupling coefficients for three-wave interaction are derived by a Lagrangian approach for a general medium. A derivation of the Low Lagrangian for a warm plasma is then given, which avoids certain problems associated with the original analysis. An application of the Lagrangian method is made to interaction between collinearly-propagating electrostatic waves, and a coupling coefficient is derived which agrees with a previous result obtained by direct expansion of the non-linear equations. The paper serves primarily to present and demonstrate a conceptually useful and efficient theoretical approach to non-linear wave interactions.


2020 ◽  
Vol 218 ◽  
pp. 108218
Author(s):  
Santanu Koley ◽  
Kottala Panduranga ◽  
Nourah Almashan ◽  
Subramaniam Neelamani ◽  
Alanoud Al-Ragum

Author(s):  
Ai-jun Li ◽  
Yong Liu ◽  
Zuo-rui Lyu

This article studies water wave interaction with a submerged quarter-circular breakwater based on potential theory and multipole expansion method. The obliquely and normally incident waves are independently considered. The series solution of velocity potential in the external fluid domain is expressed through the multipole expansions, while the series solution of velocity potential in the quarter-circular internal fluid domain is obtained through the separation of variables. Then, the unknown coefficients in the series solutions are determined by matching the boundary conditions between external and internal fluid domains. The calculation methods for the reflection and transmission coefficients of the submerged quarter-circular breakwater as well as the horizontal and vertical wave forces on the breakwater are presented. The wave forces acting on the submerged breakwater with a seaside quarter-circular-arc and that with a leeside quarter-circular-arc are compared. The hydrodynamic quantities of the submerged quarter-circular breakwater are also compared with those of the submerged semi-circular breakwater. In addition, the effects of breakwater radius, incident frequency, and incident angle on the hydrodynamic quantities of the quarter-circular breakwater are clarified. Valuable results for practical engineering application are drawn.


2016 ◽  
Vol 124 ◽  
pp. 180-191 ◽  
Author(s):  
R. Gayen ◽  
Arpita Mondal
Keyword(s):  

1970 ◽  
Vol 41 (4) ◽  
pp. 801-821 ◽  
Author(s):  
Alex D. D. Craik

Interactions of suitable pairs of gravity waves in a shear flow are found to give rise to aperiodic or weakly periodic secondary motions. These secondary flows resemble the ‘Langmuir vortices’ which are associated with the formation of windrows. It seems likely that such wave interactions will play a substantial part in determining the quasi-steady structure of the flow when wind blows over a water surface.


2001 ◽  
Vol 43 (1) ◽  
pp. 39-58 ◽  
Author(s):  
Guoping Miao ◽  
Takehisa Saitoh ◽  
Hajime Ishida

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