Aeroterrestrial and Extremophilic Microalgae as Promising Sources for Lipids and Lipid Nanoparticles in Dermal Cosmetics

Microscopic prokaryotic and eukaryotic algae (microalgae), which can be effectively grown in mass cultures, are gaining increasing interest in cosmetics. Up to now, the main attention was on aquatic algae, while species from aeroterrestrial and extreme environments remained underestimated. In these habitats, algae accumulate high amounts of some chemical substances or develop specific compounds, which cause them to thrive in inimical conditions. Among such biologically active molecules is a large family of lipids, which are significant constituents in living organisms and valuable ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Therefore, natural sources of lipids are increasingly in demand in the modern cosmetic industry and its innovative technologies. Among novelties in skin care products is the use of lipid nanoparticles as carriers of dermatologically active ingredients, which enhance their penetration and release in the skin strata. This review is an attempt to comprehensively cover the available literature on the high-value lipids from microalgae, which inhabit aeroterrestrial and extreme habitats (AEM). Data on different compounds of 87 species, subspecies and varieties from 53 genera (represented by more than 141 strains) from five phyla are provided and, despite some gaps in the current knowledge, demonstrate the promising potential of AEM as sources of valuable lipids for novel skin care products.

Halal Label and Product Quality: Case Study Wardah Cosmetic Product Purchase Decision

The development of the Indonesian cosmetic industry is relatively rapid because cosmetic products have become primary needs in Indonesia which the population is predominantly Muslim. This development caused competitive competition between cosmetics brands in Indonesia. Because of this competition, Wardah cosmetics is considering the halal label in its products and the quality of the products to increase consumer purchasing decisions. This research uses quantitative, associative methods to investigate the relationship between halal brands and product quality with the purchasing decision of Wardah cosmetics, especially in Surabaya. The number of samples used is 100 Muslim respondents who used Wardah cosmetics products in Surabaya. The data analysis technique used is multiple correlation coefficient analysis using SPSS version 25. The study results showed that halal labeling and product quality simultaneously had a significant and robust relationship with the purchasing decision of Wardah cosmetic products. While partially, the halal labels and product quality had a moderate and meaningful relationship with the purchase decision of Wardah cosmetics products.

Hyssopus Essential Oil: An Update of Its Phytochemistry, Biological Activities, and Safety Profile

The genus Hyssopus is widespread in central Asia, East Mediterranean, and Mongolian areas. It has six main species which are used as herbal remedies, such as Hyssopus officinalis which is used as a condiment and flavoring agent in food industry. The other five species are H. ambiguus, H. cuspidatus, H. latilabiatus, H. macranthus, and H. seravschanicus. Its species are used in the treatment of various ailments such as cold, cough, loss of appetite, fungal infection, and spasmodic condition. Its constituents especially essential oils are popularly used as an additive in beverages, foods, and cosmetics. The volatile constituents are used for aroma in the food industry, cosmetic industry, and household products. The important active constituents in its essential oils are β-pinene, pinocamphone, isopinocamphone, and other terpenoids. Hyssopus genus is also bundled with other secondary metabolites including flavonoids luteolin, quercetin, apigenin, and their glucosides, as well as phenolic compounds including ferulic, p-hydroxy-benzoic acid, protocatechuic acid, chlorogenic, and caffeic acid. Combinedly, the extracts of Hyssopus are reported to have potential antiviral and antifungal activities proven using in vitro studies, whereas in vivo investigations have reported the crucial role of Hyssopus extracts in plasma membrane relaxation, cytotoxic, and sedative effects. This plant is believed to be relatively safe at levels commonly used in foods; nevertheless, more studies are needed to determine the safety profile.

Alternative Extraction and Downstream Purification Processes for Anthocyanins

Anthocyanins are natural pigments displaying different attractive colors ranging from red, violet, to blue. These pigments present health benefits that increased their use in food, nutraceuticals, and the cosmetic industry. However, anthocyanins are mainly extracted through conventional methods that are time-consuming and involve the use of organic solvents. Moreover, the chemical diversity of the obtained complex extracts make the downstream purification step challenging. Therefore, the growing demand of these high-value pigments has stimulated the interest in designing new, safe, cost-effective, and tunable strategies for their extraction and purification. The current review focuses on the potential application of compressed fluid-based (such as subcritical and supercritical fluid extraction and pressurized liquid extraction) and deep eutectic solvents-based extraction methods for the recovery of anthocyanins. In addition, an updated review of the application of counter-current chromatography for anthocyanins purification is provided as a faster and cost-effective alternative to preparative-scale HPLC.

Challenges of nanotechnology in cosmetic permeation with caffeine

The evolution of beauty market and personal care is constant in Brazil as well in the rest of the world. Technological advances have brought up nanotechnology to the cosmetological field, employing active principles at atoms enveloped by vesicles, in order to take the active principle precisely to the target tissue to optimize the results achieved because of the considerable ease to cross skin barriers. Manufacturing of nanotechnology cosmetics is confronted with low absorption capacity. One of the many active principle found in cosmetic industry is caffeine, a pseudoalkaloid from the xanthine group used as a stimulant with the mechanism of the lipolytic action. This active is widely used in a esthetics and cosmetics field in treatments involving dysfunctions such as localized fat and fibroedema geloid. To work out perfectly, the principle active need to interact and create a set of factors that includes lipolysis intensification. The caffeine encapsulation in gel-based nanocosmetics has the purpose of taking this active up to the adipocyte, the target cell, for mentioned dysfunctions treatment. Thus, we aim to present a review of how has been, the use of caffeine in the production of cosmetics.

Pengaruh Ukuran Partikel, Perbandingan Jumlah Pelarut dan Waktu Maserasi terhadap Perolehan Rendemen Aquilaria Malaccensis Lam.

Aquilaria Malaccensis Lam. is one of the most popular plants contains essential oil, both of them used by pharmaceutical and also cosmetic industry. The plants used in this study came from Jambi, Indonesia which is known, It’s one of the best quality agarwood in the world. This study aims to determine the best conditions for the yield so that it can be produced on an industrial scale. The study reviewed the effect of yield based on size of particles, ratio of solvent, and the operating time, maceration. The research was carried out in three steps. The first, raw material preparation, fermentation and maceration, and then evaporation. Preparation of raw materials is prepared in three variables, 2-5 cm, ±2cm, and size <40 mesh. Methanol is the solvent that will be used in multiple ratio of solvent to agarwood, its 1:7, 1:9, and 1:11(gr/ml). In addition, the maceration time was varied for each sample, 1 day, 2 days, and 3 days. Based on the research variables, obtained essential oil of agarwood dark brown in colour, with a special fragrance of agarwood. Based on the difference in particle size, it is known that size <40 mesh, yield is 3.16%, while for the larger size, 2-5 cm, the yield is 3.12%. In the variable ratio of the amount of solvent used, it is known that 1:9 (gr/ml) is the best point for yield. At maceration step known that 2-3 days, it doesn’t gives a significant change, 2.12 g for 3 days, and 1.92 g for 2 days.

Study on Expectation and Recognition of Farmhouse in Development of Cosmetics Using Local Specialities

This article studied expectation and recognition on the development of cosmetics using local specialities in farmer producing local specialities in South Korea. This is a previous step to present a successful model by convergences of agriculture and cosmetic industry, this model is able to offer basic data in the development of cosmetics using local specialities. A total of 316 farmers in South Korea from May 2021 were enrolled in this study. Statistical analysis was performed using SPSS for Windows, version 23.0. In the results comparing of expectation and awareness on application of local specialities by general characteristics and recognition of convergence industry, the expectation and awareness on application of local specialities showed significant difference partially according to the age, sex, last educational background, annual income and level on recognition of convergence industry. Also, that showed high difference according to level on recognition of convergence industry and the level on recognition of convergence industry exhibited the difference according to age, sex and income. Therefore, policy support of government based on these results needs in various directions such as technology, education, finance and promotion.

Concentration of Antioxidant Compounds from Calendula officinalis through Sustainable Supercritical Technologies, and Computational Study of Their Permeability in Skin for Cosmetic Use

The growing interest in the cosmetic industry in using compounds of natural and sustainable origin that are safe for humans is encouraging the development of processes that can satisfy these needs. Chlorogenic acid (CHA), caffeic acid (CAF) and ferulic acid (FA) are three compounds widely used within the cosmetic industry due to their functionalities as antioxidants, collagen modifiers or even as radiation protectors. In this work, two advanced separation techniques with supercritical CO2 are used to obtain these three compounds from Calendula officinalis, and these are then evaluated using a computational skin permeability model. This model is encompassed by the COSMO-RS model, the calculations of which make it possible to study the behaviour of the compounds in the epidermis. The results show that both CAF and FA are retained in the stratum corneum, while CHA manages to penetrate to the stratum spinosum. These compounds were concentrated by antisolvent fractionation with super-critical CO2 using a Response Surface Methodology to study the effect of pressure and CO2 flow rate. CHA, CAF and FA were completely retained in the precipitation vessel, with concentrations between 40% and 70% greater than in the original extract. The conditions predicted that the optimal overall yield and enrichment achieved would be 153 bar and 42 g/min.

Effects of Customized Skin Diagnosis Service on Participation-based Consumer Segmentation

Purpose: This study aimed to verify the possibility of consumer segmentation of customized cosmetic skin diagnosis services by identifying the needs of potential customers related to their consumption value, participation level, and pursuit benefits for each type of customized cosmetic service.Methods: An online survey was conducted for 13 days in September 2020 on individuals aged at least 20 years, living in Seoul and its metropolitan area. Among 483 received responses, only 393 were used for an analysis; insufficient responses and those written by residents living outside of the included region were excluded. Data were analyzed as per frequency analysis, factor analysis, reliability analysis, one-way ANOVA, post-hoc analysis, correlation analysis, and regression analysis.Results: Findings confirmed that consumer segmentation is possible in the customized cosmetic skin diagnosis services and customized ingredients services. After analyzing the average difference of consumption value, participation level, and pursuit benefits, the monthly average purchasing cost in cosmetics showed significant differences. Participation level, consumption value, and benefits were positively correlated. Participation level affects the consumption value.Conclusion: The customized cosmetic skin diagnosis service can serve as the foundation for the skin cosmetic industry development and as part of systematic and secure skincare.