scholarly journals Emergence of Solitons from Irregular Waves in Deep Water

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (12) ◽  
pp. 1369
Author(s):  
Weida Xia ◽  
Yuxiang Ma ◽  
Guohai Dong ◽  
Jie Zhang ◽  
Xiaozhou Ma

Numerical simulations were performed to study the long-distance evolution of irregular waves in deep water. It was observed that some solitons, which are the theoretical solutions of the nonlinear Schrödinger equation, emerged spontaneously as irregular wave trains propagated in deep water. The solitons propagated approximately at a speed of the linear group velocity. All the solitons had a relatively large amplitude and one detected soliton’s height was two times larger than the significant wave height of the wave train, therefore satisfying the rogue wave definition. The numerical results showed that solitons can persist for a long distance, reaching about 65 times the peak wavelength. By analyzing the spatial variations of these solitons in both time and spectral domains, it is found that the third-and higher-order resonant interactions and dispersion effects played significant roles in the formation of solitons.

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 157
Author(s):  
Yvon Ouellet ◽  
Pierre Eubanks

This paper describes the results of an experimental study on the effect of waves on rubble-mound breakwaters, wave transmission subsequent to wave overtopping, the stability of the three sides subjected to wave action and the effect of the breakwaters on waves. Two different rubble-mound breakwaters were tested, i. e. one with a rigid impermeable crest and the other with a flexible permeable crest. Tests were performed with both regular and irregular wave train systems. To obtain the simulated irregular wave trains, four theoretical spectra were chosen: Neumann, Bretschneider, Moskowitz, and Scott. Results obtained from tests with irregular wave trains were compared to those obtained from tests with regular wave trains. It was found that more information was obtained on the behaviour of the structure when it was submitted to the attack of irregular waves than when submitted to regular waves, and that the use of irregular wave trains gave more interesting results.


Author(s):  
Anskey A. Miranda ◽  
Fred P. Turner ◽  
Nigel Barltrop

This paper presents a study of the analysis methodologies used to predict the most likely response of flexibles in a subsea environment, with the aim of determining an efficient and reliable prediction methodology. The most accurate method involves simulating multiple wave realisations of a real world sea state, i.e. irregular waves, and post-processing the results to determine the most probable maximum (MPM). Due to the computationally intensive nature of this approach, however, regular wave analysis is typically used to determine flexible response. This approach considers the maximum wave within a design storm at a desired period; the choice of periods may leave room for uncertainty in the conservatism of the approach. With proper screening, regular wave analysis can be a valid yet overly conservative approach resulting in over design and additional cost. However, if screened incorrectly, there is a possibility that the choice of periods could give results that are under conservative. In addition to regular wave analysis, the paper presents two alternative methodologies to determine the most likely response, with the focus on reducing the computational resources required. The first alternative is an ‘Irregular Wave Screen’ approach in which the wave train is screened at areas of interest for waves within a user defined threshold of the maximum wave height, in addition to other user defined parameters. Only waves within these parameters are simulated to determine responses. The second alternative is the ‘New Wave’ approach, which models the most probable wave elevation around the maximum wave crest. The calculated new wave is then placed at the desired location to determine responses. The responses of the Regular, Irregular Wave Screen and New Wave methodologies are compared with the Irregular MPM approach to determine their feasibility to predict the response of flexibles in a real world irregular sea state with lower computational requirements.


1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 102 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nubuo Mimura ◽  
Yukinori Otsuka ◽  
Akira Watanabe

In the present study, effects of irregular waves on two-dimensional beach transformation and related phenomena were investigated through a series of laboratory experiments. Attempts were made to determine a representative wave of irregular wave trains which controlled individual phenomenon related to the two-dimensional beach profile change. It was found that the representative wave is different for each phenomenon. For the macroscopic beach profile change, it is the mean wave which represents whole incident waves. On the other hand, some of microscopic phenomena, such as initiation of sand movement and sand ripple formation, are controlled by larger waves in the wave train selectively, of which representative wave is the significant wave.


Author(s):  
Yanqiu Zhang ◽  
Zhimin Tan ◽  
Yucheng Hou ◽  
Jiabei Yuan

A study was conducted to have a deeper understanding to the statistical characteristics of response of flexible riser in global dynamic simulation with irregular wave. If consider the numerical simulation model as a system and the input wave train as an excitation to it, the time histories of riser load should be the response of the system to the excitation. In order to look the effect of riser configuration and water depth, the study was conducted with three kinds of configuration: Free-Hanging, Lazy-S and Tethered-Wave, which were in different water depths. In order to examine the stationarity and ergodicity of riser response, 100 simulations were performed. Each simulation was performed with a 3-hours-long storm. Except the seeds used to generate the random phases to the wave components, the 100 irregular wave processes for each riser are completely the same. When the number of wave components is enough large, the input irregular wave train should be a stationary normal process. Since the software used for the dynamic simulation is high nonlinear, however, the time history of riser response may not be perfectly stationary normal process. Then different probability distribution theories were applied to fit these time histories and the most fitting one was found out for different riser responses and for different riser configurations. The ensemble autocorrelation functions and the time autocorrelation functions were also examined for both irregular waves and the riser responses. Then the study indicated that both irregular waves and riser responses as random processes should be ergodic stationary. Finally the cross correlations between the irregular waves and riser responses were also examined and it was found that the irregular wave for each riser should be jointly stationary with each response of the riser.


1971 ◽  
Vol 50 (1) ◽  
pp. 107-132 ◽  
Author(s):  
Young Yuel Kim ◽  
Thomas J. Hanratty

This paper reports on weak quadratic interactions which can occur with two-dimensional waves on shallow water layers and in the capillary-gravity range on deep water layers. It supplies experimental support of theoretical predictions for resonant interactions, but, perhaps of more significance, it explores in detail interactions which occur under conditions near resonance.Waves of approximately sinusoidal form are introduced on the surface of water in a long rectangular tank. For deep water a rapid distortion in the sinusoidal wave and sometimes additional crests are observed because of energy exchange among the first, second and third harmonics at frequencies where both surface tension and gravity are important (7·5–13 c/s). An even greater exchange of energy can be observed on shallow water layers at low frequencies. For example, a wave train with seven secondary crests can be observed when the wave maker is operated at 3·04 c/s in a water layer of 0·65 cm.Measured amplitudes and phase angles of the Fourier components of the wave train are described by a system of equations using only quadratic interactions among participating harmonics. The exchange of energy among Fourier components under certain conditions is explained in terms of the rate of change of relative phase angles of the different harmonics.


Author(s):  
Renato Skejic ◽  
Odd M. Faltinsen

Ship maneuvering in waves is analyzed by using a unified seakeeping and maneuvering two-time scale model in irregular sea that has been applied by Skejic and Faltinsen [1] for regular waves. The irregular wave effects are accounted for by Newman’s [2] approximation of the slow-drift 2nd order wave loads valid for deep water (Faltinsen [3], Pinkster [29]). The modular type maneuvering model (MMG model) based on Söding’s [4] nonlinear slender-body theory is used for the maneuvering analysis. Forces and moments due to rudder, propeller, and viscous cross-flow are accounted for as presented by Skejic and Faltinsen [1] and Yasukawa [5, 6]. In particular, the behavior of the propulsive coefficients (the thrust deduction and wake fraction) in waves (Faltinsen et al. [7], Faltinsen and Minsaas [8]) are discussed from the perspective of ship maneuvering characteristics in both regular and irregular wave environments. The unified model of seakeeping and maneuvering for deep-water irregular waves is validated for the ‘S7-175’ (‘SR 108’) container ship in calm water and regular deep-water wave scenarios by comparison with experimental results by Yasukawa [5, 6]. The maneuvering model is applied to a ‘MARINER’ ship performing turning maneuver in irregular waves. The obtained results of the ships main maneuvering parameters are discussed from a statistical point of view.


2018 ◽  
Vol 6 (3) ◽  
pp. 105 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ankit Aggarwal ◽  
Csaba Pákozdi ◽  
Hans Bihs ◽  
Dag Myrhaug ◽  
Mayilvahanan Alagan Chella

The experimental wave paddle signal is unknown to the numerical modellers in many cases. This makes it quite challenging to numerically reproduce the time history of free surface elevation for irregular waves. In the present work, a numerical investigation is performed using a computational fluid dynamics (CFD) based model to validate and investigate a non-iterative free surface reconstruction technique for irregular waves. In the current approach, the free surface is reconstructed by spectrally composing the irregular wave train as a summation of the harmonic components coupled with the Dirichlet inlet boundary condition. The verification is performed by comparing the numerically reconstructed free surface elevation with theoretical input waves. The applicability of the present approach to generate irregular waves by reconstructing the free surface is investigated for different coastal and marine engineering problems. A numerical analysis is performed to validate the free surface reconstruction approach to generate breaking irregular waves over a submerged bar. The wave amplitudes, wave frequencies and wave phases are modelled with good accuracy in the time-domain during the higher-order energy transfers and complex processes like wave shoaling, wave breaking and wave decomposition. The present approach to generate irregular waves is also employed to model steep irregular waves in deep water. The free surface reconstruction method is able to simulate the irregular free surface profiles in deep water with low root mean square errors and high correlation coefficients. Furthermore, the irregular wave forces on a monopile are investigated in the time-domain. The amplitudes and phases of the force signal under irregular waves generated by using the current technique are modelled accurately in the time-domain. The proposed approach to numerically reproduce the free surface elevation in the time-domain provides promising and accurate results for all the benchmark cases.


2018 ◽  
Vol 853 ◽  
pp. 564-586 ◽  
Author(s):  
Bjørn Hervold Riise ◽  
John Grue ◽  
Atle Jensen ◽  
Thomas B. Johannessen

Experiments with a weakly damped monopile, either fixed or free to oscillate, exposed to irregular waves in deep water, obtain the wave-exciting moment and motion response. The nonlinearity and peak wavenumber cover the ranges: $\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}_{P}\sim 0.10{-}0.14$ and $k_{P}r\sim 0.09{-}0.14$ where $\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}_{P}=0.5H_{S}k_{P}$ is an estimate of the spectral wave slope, $H_{S}$ the significant wave height, $k_{P}$ the peak wavenumber and $r$ the cylinder radius. The response and its statistics, expressed in terms of the exceedance probability, are discussed as a function of the resonance frequency, $\unicode[STIX]{x1D714}_{0}$ in the range $\unicode[STIX]{x1D714}_{0}\sim 3{-}5$ times the spectral peak frequency, $\unicode[STIX]{x1D714}_{P}$. For small wave slope, long waves and $\unicode[STIX]{x1D714}_{0}/\unicode[STIX]{x1D714}_{P}=3$, the nonlinear response deviates only very little from its linear counterpart. However, the nonlinearity becomes important for increasing wave slope, wavenumber and resonance frequency ratio. The extreme response events are found in a region where the Keulegan–Carpenter number exceeds $KC>5$, indicating the importance of possible flow separation effects. A similar region is also covered by a Froude number exceeding $Fr>0.4$, pointing to surface gravity wave effects at the scale of the cylinder diameter. Regarding contributions to the higher harmonic forces, different wave load mechanisms are identified, including: (i) wave-exciting inertia forces, a function of the fluid acceleration; (ii) wave slamming due to both non-breaking and breaking wave events; (iii) a secondary load cycle; and (iv) possible drag forces, a function of the fluid velocity. Also, history effects due to the inertia of the moving pile, contribute to the large response events. The ensemble means of the third, fourth and fifth harmonic wave-exciting force components extracted from the irregular wave results are compared to the third harmonic FNV (Faltinsen, Newman and Vinje) theory as well as other available experiments and calculations. The present irregular wave measurements generalize results obtained in deep water regular waves.


1962 ◽  
Vol 12 (3) ◽  
pp. 333-336 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. S. Longuet-Higgins ◽  
O. M. Phillips

It is shown that, when two trains of waves in deep water interact, the phase velocity of each is modified by the presence of the other. The change in phase velocity is of second order and is distinct from the increase predicted by Stokes for a single wave train. When the wave trains are moving in the same direction, the increase in velocity Δc2 of the wave with amplitude a2, wave-number k2 and frequency α2 resulting from the interaction with the wave (a1, k1, σ1) is given by Δc2 = a21k1σ1, provided k1 < k2. If k1 > k2, then Δc2 is given by the same expression multiplied by k2/k1. If the directions of propagation are opposed, the phase velocities are decreased by the same amount. These expressions are extended to give the increase (or decrease) in velocity due to a continuous spectrum of waves all travelling in the same (or opposite) direction.


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