Geomorphological Changes of a Migrating Sandbank: Multidecadal Analysis as a Tool for Managing Conflicts in Coastal Use

While beach erosion and sand loss are typically of great concern to the tourism industry, managing rapid morphological changes linked to large amounts of moving sediments is the challenge facing Grado, an important seaside resort in the northern Adriatic, Italy. The cause of the unusual management conflict is the presence of the Mula di Muggia Bank, a nearshore depositional system made up of relict and active migrating sandbanks extending up to 2 km seawards from the touristic beachfront. A reconstruction of the morpho-sedimentary evolution of the coastal system over a 200-year period was done using a large dataset which includes historical cartography, topographic maps, aerial photos and topo-bathymetric surveys. The results show the growth of a significant urban development aimed at creating a tourist destination by occupying the waterfront along fetch-limited coastal tracts with very shallow water and scarce hydrodynamics. Furthermore, a number of sandy dynamic landforms (longshore migrating bars, a bypass corridor, an ebb-tidal delta) and accumulation zones attest to a sediment excess which can be mostly attributed to the eastern river supplies. The progressive constant migration rate of 12.6 my−1 allowed the bank to induce the expansion of the low-energy silty backbarrier environment, characterised by abundant seagrass meadows a short distance directly in front of the tourist beaches of Grado. As a result of historical analysis and more current observations, areas with diverse morphosedimentary features and with varying tourist/recreational, ecological, and conservation values have been identified. These can be considered as basic units for future accurate planning and re-evaluation of coastal management choices to balance environmental protection and tourist use. A soft coastal defence approach is proposed which includes either the preservation of specific environments or the proper use of excess sand for beach nourishment via periodic dredging or sediment bypassing.

Spatiotemporal Distribution Characteristics of Nutrients in the Drowned Tidal Inlet under the Influence of Tides: A Case Study of Zhanjiang Bay, China

The tidal dynamics and the characteristics of pollutant migration in the drowned-valley tidal inlet, a typical unit of coastal tidal inlets, are strongly influenced by geomorphological features. Along with the development of society and the economy, the hydrodynamic and water quality environment of the tidal inlet is also becoming more disturbed by human activities, such as reclamation of the sea and the construction of large bridges. In this study, a typical drowned-valley tidal inlet, Zhanjiang Bay (ZJB), was selected for the establishment of a model via coupling of a tidal hydrodynamic model and water quality numerical model. This model can be used to simulate the migration and diffusion of pollutants in ZJB. The spatial and temporal variation processes of water quality factors of the bay under the influence of special geomorphic units was simulated at the tidal-inlet entrance, the flood/ebb tidal delta, and the tidal basin. The results show that ZJB has strong tidal currents that are significantly affected by the terrain. Under the influence of the terrain and tidal currents, the phosphorus and nitrogen concentration at the flood-tide and ebb-tide moments showed obvious temporal and spatial differences in the ebb-tide delta, tidal-inlet entrance, flood-tide delta, and tidal basin. In this study, we analyzed the response mechanism of the water quality environment to the drowned-valley tidal inlet, and this can provide theoretical guidance and a basis for decision-making toward protecting the ecology and water security of ZJB.

TOPOGRAPHIC RESPONSE TO EXTENSION OF AN OBLIQUE TRAINING JETTY AT IMAGIRE-GUCHI TIDAL INLET

At Imagire-guchi tidal inlet connecting Lake Hamana to the Pacific Ocean, a jetty had been extended by 1973 to stabilize the entrance channel of the inlet. Although 45 years has passed from the completion of the extension of the jetty to 2018, large topographic changes are still occurring offshore of the tidal inlet. One of the authors investigated the topographic changes until 2005, and the beach changes around the inlet were analyzed using the BG model (a model for predicting 3-D beach changes based on Bagnold's concept). In this study, topographic changes were analyzed again using the bathymetric survey data collected by 2017, and the development and deformation of the ebb tidal delta were studied.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/V1o3QXO-q1g

Measurements of hydrodynamics, sediment, morphology and benthos on Ameland ebb-tidal delta and lower shoreface

A large-scale field campaign was carried out on the ebb-tidal delta (ETD) of Ameland Inlet, a basin of the Wadden Sea in the Netherlands, as well as on three transects along the Dutch lower shoreface. The data have been obtained over the years 2017–2018. The most intensive campaign at the ETD of Ameland Inlet was in September 2017. With this campaign, as part of KustGenese2.0 (Coastal Genesis 2.0) and SEAWAD, we aim to gain new knowledge on the processes driving sediment transport and benthic species distribution in such a dynamic environment. These new insights will ultimately help the development of optimal strategies to nourish the Dutch coastal zone in order to prevent coastal erosion and keep up with sea level rise. The dataset obtained from the field campaign consists of (i) single- and multi-beam bathymetry; (ii) pressure, water velocity, wave statistics, turbidity, conductivity, temperature, and bedform morphology on the shoal; (iii) pressure and velocity at six back-barrier locations; (iv) bed composition and macrobenthic species from box cores and vibrocores; (v) discharge measurements through the inlet; (vi) depth and velocity from X-band radar; and (vii) meteorological data. The combination of all these measurements at the same time makes this dataset unique and enables us to investigate the interactions between sediment transport, hydrodynamics, morphology and the benthic ecosystem in more detail. The data provide opportunities to calibrate numerical models to a high level of detail. Furthermore, the open-source datasets can be used for system comparison studies. The data are publicly available at 4TU Centre for Research Data at https://doi.org/10.4121/collection:seawad (Delft University of Technology et al., 2019) and https://doi.org/10.4121/collection:kustgenese2 (Rijkswaterstaat and Deltares, 2019). The datasets are published in netCDF format and follow conventions for CF (Climate and Forecast) metadata. The http://data.4tu.nl (last access: 11 November 2020) site provides keyword searching options and maps with the geographical position of the data.

From Ripples to Large-Scale Sand Transport: The Effects of Bedform-Related Roughness on Hydrodynamics and Sediment Transport Patterns in Delft3D

Bedform-related roughness affects both water movement and sediment transport, so it is important that it is represented correctly in numerical morphodynamic models. The main objective of the present study is to quantify for the first time the importance of ripple- and megaripple-related roughness for modelled hydrodynamics and sediment transport on the wave- and tide-dominated Ameland ebb-tidal delta in the north of the Netherlands. To do so, a sensitivity analysis was performed, in which several types of bedform-related roughness predictors were evaluated using a Delft3D model. Also, modelled ripple roughness was compared to data of ripple heights observed in a six-week field campaign on the Ameland ebb-tidal delta. The present study improves our understanding of how choices in model set-up influence model results. By comparing the results of the model scenarios, it was found that the ripple and megaripple-related roughness affect the depth-averaged current velocity, mainly over the shallow areas of the delta. The small-scale ripples are also important for the suspended load sediment transport, both indirectly through the affected flow and directly. While the current magnitude changes by 10–20% through changes in bedform roughness, the sediment transport magnitude changes by more than 100%.

Tidal and Storm Impacts on Hydrodynamics and Sediment Dynamics in an Energetic Ebb Tidal Delta

Bottom-mounted instrumentation was deployed at two sites on a large sandy shoal of an ebb tidal delta offshore of the Port Royal Sound of South Carolina of USA to collect hydrodynamics and sediment dynamics data. One site (“borrow site”) was 2 km offshore in a dredge pit for nearby beach nourishment and the other site (“reference site”) was 10 km offshore. In situ time-series data were collected during two periods after the dredging: 15 March–12 June (spring) and 18 August–18 November (fall) of 2012. Data at the reference site indicated active migrating bedforms from centimeters to decimeters tall, and sediment concentrations were highly associated with semidiurnal and fortnightly tidal cycles. In the fall deployment, waves at the reference site were higher than those at the shallow borrow site. Both Tropical Storm Beryl and Hurricane Sandy formed high waves and strong currents but did not generate the greatest sediment fluxes. The two sites were at different depths and distances offshore, and waves contributed more to sediment mobility at the reference site whereas tidal forcing was the key controlling factor at the borrow site. This study provides valuable datasets for the selection of sites, prediction of pit infilling, and the modeling of storm impact in future beach nourishment and coastal restoration projects.