Natural Dyeing of Cellulose and Protein Fibers with the Flower Extract of Spartium junceum L. Plant

In this study, the natural dye was extracted from Spartium junceum L. (SJL) flowers and applied on cellulose (cotton) and protein (wool) fabric. Fabrics were pre-mordant with alum prior to the dyeing process. Considering the global requirements on zero waste and green policy, the dyeing process was intended to be as much as possible environmentally friendly but still effective. Therefore, mordant concentration was optimized due to the reduction of the negative impact. The efficiency of the dyeing process was investigated by examination of fabrics’ color characteristics and colorfastness to washing properties. In this paper, we have proved that the extracted dye from Spartium junceum L. is an acidic dye (mordant dye) which is more applicable for the treatment of wool fabrics. In this paper, it was proved that phytochemicals responsible for coloring are part of the flavonoids group. The UV absorption spectra of extracted dye show 4 bands in the region of λmax 224, 268, 308 and 346 nm which are ascribed to bands characteristic for flavonoids. Wool fabric pre-mordant with 3% alum and dyed shows great chromatic (C*) properties where C* value is in a range from 47.76 for unwashed samples to 47.50 for samples after 5 washing cycles and color hue (h°) is in a range 82.13 for unwashed samples to 81.52 for samples after 5 washing cycles. The best result regarding the colorfastness properties is shown by the wool sample treated with 3% alum after 5 washing cycles (total difference in color (Delta E*) = 0.87). These results confirm that metal (Al) from alum mordant make strong chemical bonds with wool substrate and dye since Delta E* values decrease in comparison to Delta E* values of the cotton samples treated the same way. The results revealed it is possible to reduce the concentration of mordant up to 3% and obtain satisfactory results regarding the colorfastness. Nevertheless, future research will go in the direction of replacing synthetic mordant with a more environmentally friendly one.

Medullated fibres and fleece characteristics in Corriedale hoggets from two flocks in Uruguay

The incidence of medullation in 549 Corriedale hoggets from two experimental flocks, its association with other characteristics of the fleece, and the sire effect were evaluated. The investigation was carried out during 2005–06 in hoggets from the Faculty of Agriculture and Faculty of Veterinary Science experimental flocks. Fleeces were weighed and samples were taken at shearing by picking 104 staples from fleeces to measure medullation. A mid-side wool sample was taken to determine wool characteristics (fleece weight, wool yield, mean fibre diameter, staple strength and length). A Dark Fibre Detector was used to identify total medullated fibres and fibre type: medullated fibres (med) and kemp, which were confirmed by light microscope. Mean total medullated fibres, med and kemp content per 10 g of clean wool were 4.2 ± 11.2; 2.0 ± 8.9 and 2.3 ± 4.9, and median values were 0.9, 0.0 and 0.7, respectively, in 549 fleeces. A high variability between samples and a higher proportion of hoggets with kemp fibres than those with med were observed. There were significant differences between sire families for total medullated fibre content/10 g, med fibre content/10 g and kemp fibre content/10 g, but there were no significant effects between flocks, years or interaction between them. Phenotypic correlations between medullated fibre content and wool characteristics were generally low (less than 0.19). In conclusion, medullated fibre content was highly variable between samples and was not strongly correlated with other fleece characteristics. Medullation varied between sire groups, suggesting genetic variation, which could be exploited to improve wool quality.

Wool fibre tenacity in Romney sheep genetically different in staple tenacity

Wool from lines of Romney sheep selected for improved or reduced staple tenacity was examined to determine if the difference in staple tenacity was explained by a difference in fibre tenacity. A random sample of ewe hogget wools (n = 32) was chosen from each of the 2 selection lines. Fibre tenacity was measured by breaking 10 fibres from each wool sample using an Instron to measure peak force, and then a fluorescence microscope attached to an image analyser to measure cross-sectional area of the fracture surface. Staple tenacity was measured on 5 staples per sample, by placing each staple in a Staplebreaker set to 40 mm between clamps, and the peak force to break the staple was recorded. Prior to clamping, each staple was adjusted so that the thinnest point measured 1.5 mm2 in cross-section and this point was positioned 20 mm from each clamp. Although the difference in staple tenacity between these 2 groups was highly significant (P = 0.002)) there was no difference in the tenacity of individual fibres (P = 0.903). Staple tenacity was not significantly correlated with fibre tenacity (r = 0.090). Similarly, there was no significant correlation between work to break the staple and either work (r = 0.118) or peak force (r = 0.195) to break the fibre. It is proposed that other components of staple tenacity, such as the profile of cross-sectional area along the fibre and the variability of crimped fibre length within the staple, may be more important determinants of staple tenacity in these selection lines.

A note on an alternative technique for measurement of area of midside patch in wool growth studies

The ‘conventional’ method of measuring the area of a wool sample patch involves the direct in situ measurement of the patch dimensions while in the field using callipers (Turner et al. 1953). This procedure is time consuming and expensive in terms of labour required. In an attempt to reduce the cost and increase the speed of the procedure in the field a new method was devised and tested.