STONE TOOL FUNCTIONS, HOUSEHOLD ACTIVITIES, AND FORMATIVE LITHIC ECONOMIES IN NORTHERN TLAXCALA, MEXICO

High-magnification use-wear analyses create datasets that enable microeconomic studies of lithic consumption and household activities that complement macroeconomic studies of lithic production and exchange to collectively improve our reconstructions of ancient economies. In recent decades, compositional and technological analyses have revealed how certain obsidian sources and lithic technologies were exploited, produced, and exchanged in Mexico's central highlands region during the Formative period (1500 b.c.–a.d. 100). This article presents use-wear analyses of 275 lithic artifacts from four sites in northern Tlaxcala—Amomoloc (900–650 b.c.), Tetel (750–500 b.c.), Las Mesitas (600–500 b.c.), and La Laguna (600–400 b.c. and 100 b.c.–a.d. 150)—to compare household activities with lithic technologies and evaluate their roles in regional economies. Blades were used for subsistence and domestic crafting; maguey fiber extraction for textile production increased over time, especially in non-elite households. The preparation and consumption of meat acquired by hunting and other methods increased slightly over time, and bipolar tools were used as kitchen utensils. Bloodletting was practiced with two variations of late-series pressure blades, but these and other tools were neither exchanged as nor used to craft prestige goods, often viewed as driving forces of Formative economies in Mesoamerica.

Los inicios de la nueva industria sedera en Toledo (1475-1508)

This article details the beginnings of a new kind of silk’s textile production in the city of Toledo at the end of the 15th century: velvet. We examine the precedents of silk production of the city and how it was introduced a new one which partially replaced it. A key point on the analysis is the ordinances Toledo’s velvet weaving of 1485. Throughout this regulation and also through notarial protocols of the city we try to bring an image of the labor organization. El presente artículo trata sobre los inicios de una nueva forma de producción de tejidos de seda en la ciudad de Toledo a finales del siglo XV: el terciopelo. Se examina las formas de producción en fechas anteriores y la manera en la que se introduce esta nueva modalidad productiva, así como su desarrollo en los siglos siguientes. Un hecho clave para la comprensión de este proceso son las ordenanzas de tejer terciopelo de Toledo del año 1485. A partir de esta reglamentación y de los protocolos notariales toledanos se ofrece una imagen de la organización productiva de esta actividad en la ciudad.

Selection of markets for textile export using the adequate portfolio

Textiles is one of the largest industries in the world, creating significant volumes of trade, export, and jobs. In the European Union, this industry is essential and attempts to retain and increase competitiveness. Most of the textile and clothing sector production is exported; thus, adequate orientation to export markets is essential. The paper’s objective is to determine the countries suitable for exporting the textile production of Lithuania and similar countries using the adequate portfolio model. The adequate portfolio treats the export possibilities according to three parameters: return, reliability, and risk. Clothing annual average index data across countries obtained from the Eurostat database were used for calculations. After performing the research, three portfolio cases were proposed, and the most profitable export countries and their given return were determined. Research results can be applied to the whole country and for individual textile exporting enterprises.

Formaldehyde Levels in Fabrics on the Ghanaian Market

Background: Formaldehyde is a chemical used in several textile production processes, such as hardening of fibers and antimold finishing. However, it has varying effects on humans, such as irritation of the eyes, nose, throat, wheezing, chest pains and bronchitis. In the midst of COVID-19, individuals are using various fabrics for face mask production, which may be containing levels of formaldehyde that can negatively affect their health. Methods: This study investigated formaldehyde levels in fabrics on the Ghanaian market to determine compliance to standards set by the Ghana Standards Authority (GSA) with the aid of experimental procedures. Thirty-two (32) different brands of fabrics were selected for the investigation. Formaldehyde levels were determined using a spectrophotometer (DR6000). Data were analyzed using the Statistical Product and Service Solutions (SPSS) for Windows version 22. The mean performance attributes and the formaldehyde levels of the sampled fabrics were determined before and after washing. Inferential statistics (Analysis of Variance and Paired Samples t-test) at 0.05 alpha levels were used to determine significant differences between and among the groups involved. Results: The fabric samples tested positive for formaldehyde before and after washing, with some exceeding the standard limits set by the GSA before washing. Significant differences existed between and among the samples with regard to formaldehyde levels as well as weight and weave types of the samples and formaldehyde levels. Conclusion: Washing significantly reduced the formaldehyde levels in the fabrics. It is recommended that Ghana standards authority takes a further look at the fabrics on the Ghanaian market to ensure manufacturers comply with set standards and consumers are also advised to wash their clothes at least once before use to reduce the level of impact formaldehyde resin may have on them.

TEXTILES IN THE RESIDENTIAL INTERIOR

The relevance of the study is due to new experience in architectural design, new technologies and types of materials and the need to generalize and systematize them to expand the formative possibilities of textiles in the design of residential interiors. Research in the field of interior textile design was carried out by: T.I. Isayeva, Khabibullina, E.V. Zmanovska and others. The purpose of the study is to identify areas, functions and compositional techniques of textiles in residential interiors. The historical reference of development of textile production is resulted. The structural analysis of textiles in the interior by types of textile materials, production technology, types of weave, types of ornaments; identified qualities of textile materials, which determine their widespread use and the main areas of application of textiles in modern residential interiors. According to the results of the research, the main functions of textiles in the interior are revealed: creation of a comfortable microclimate in the room; psychological comfort; space adjustment; visual isolation; protection of surfaces from damage and pollution; hygiene products; decorative; compositional component of interior space design. The description of types of textile wall-paper, curtains is resulted. The compositional function of textiles in the interior is revealed: accent, dominant, background, rhythm. The conclusion is made that at a choice of textiles and reception of placement it is necessary to consider regional natural and climatic conditions; the style decision of an interior is accepted; function, size, orientation on the sides of the horizon of the room; combination of textiles with finishing of surfaces of enclosing designs and subject filling of the room; combination of fabrics in texture, color and pattern; price segment.

The Role of Women in Plant-based Textile Production during the Viking Diaspora in Scotland and the Irish Sea Region

Evidence for textiles in viking-age Scotland and the adjacent Irish Sea region derives from small fragments usually surviving as mineralised products associated with metal dress fittings and grave goods such as shield bosses and weaving battens, excavated from the furnished graves of both women and men. Since Scottish viking-age textiles were last reviewed over twenty years ago, this paper collates information from antiquarian finds and more recent excavations which employed considerably enhanced techniques for retrieving fragile archaeological textiles. Evidence is presented for the occurrence and role of plant-based textiles derived from flax and hemp including linen in funerary processes as burial garments, shrouds and wrapping other grave goods, such as weapons and tools. Many richly appointed women's graves in viking-age Scotland were accompanied by tool assemblages used in the manufacture and maintenance of textiles. The presence of these tools raises questions about the status of textile production and the roles women played in it.

Making and Trading Dress and Décor in Seventeenth-century Scotland

In seventeenth-century Scotland textiles were made in most districts and marketed widely at home and overseas. Woollens and linens, yarn, cloth, bonnets and stockings, with clear regional specialisations, were manufactured, but they were all of low cost and quality. Comparative advantage came from low rural wages. The wide distribution and character of textile production in the seventeenth century proved of great importance for post-Union success. Among imports the variety and social spread of luxury widened and deepened, though demand was restricted to the upper classes and the middling orders in Edinburgh and other large burghs. The seventeenth century, especially the second half, was a time of widening consumption of exotic articles such as tobacco, sugar and coffee among consumables, Asian silks and cottons (and their imitations) as articles of dress, and wall-hangings and pictures as décor. The social anxiety and economic stress this engendered gave rise to sumptuary laws like that of 1681. These had limited impact, though imports remained sensitive to tariffs. The letters of Andrew Russell, a merchant resident in Rotterdam between 1668 and 1697, demonstrate how this trade was carried out in both directions, and how the market responded to governmental attempts at control.