ESTIMATION OF LONG-TERM VARIABILITY OF WAVE CLIMATE AROUND THE COASTAL SEA AREAS OF JAPAN

Author(s):  
Yoshio Hatada ◽  
Masataka Yamaguchi
Keyword(s):  
2020 ◽  
Vol 8 (11) ◽  
pp. 871
Author(s):  
Masayuki Banno ◽  
Satoshi Nakamura ◽  
Taichi Kosako ◽  
Yasuyuki Nakagawa ◽  
Shin-ichi Yanagishima ◽  
...  

Long-term beach observation data for several decades are essential to validate beach morphodynamic models that are used to predict coastal responses to sea-level rise and wave climate changes. At the Hasaki coast, Japan, the beach profile has been measured for 34 years at a daily to weekly time interval. This beach morphological dataset is one of the longest and most high-frequency measurements of the beach morphological change worldwide. The profile data, with more than 6800 records, reflect short- to long-term beach morphological change, showing coastal dune development, foreshore morphological change and longshore bar movement. We investigated the temporal beach variability from the decadal and monthly variations in elevation. Extremely high waves and tidal anomalies from an extratropical cyclone caused a significant change in the long-term bar behavior and foreshore slope. The berm and bar variability were also affected by seasonal wave and water level variations. The variabilities identified here from the long-term observations contribute to our understanding of various coastal phenomena.


1974 ◽  
Vol 28 (5) ◽  
pp. 524-530 ◽  
Author(s):  
G. W. Lennon

The use of mean sea level as a surface of reference that might provide an independent control for geodetic leveling has been a long term goal arising from the classical analogy between the geoid as an equipotential surface and the surface assumed by a hypothetical undisturbed world ocean. The problems associated with this aim are now known to be vast, and are associated with the dynamics of the marine system, notably its response to meteorological forces, to variations in density and to the effects of basic circulation patterns. In consequence the mean sea level surface varies rapidly in both time and space. This identifies in fact a distinctive scientific discipline, coastal geodesy, in which contributions are required by both geodesists and oceanographers. It has come to be recognized that the coastal zone is a hazardous environment for all observational techniques concerned. On the one hand, the difficulties of measurement of coastal sea levels have only recently been understood; on the other hand, precise leveling procedures are now known to be influenced by the attraction of marine tides and by crustal deformation of tidal loading. Much of the data available for study are therefore inadequate and, moreover, it should be noted that long-time series are required. It is now possible to lay plans for both geodetic and oceanographic procedures to remedy these deficiencies in the long-term interests of the study.


Ocean Science ◽  
2020 ◽  
Vol 16 (4) ◽  
pp. 997-1016
Author(s):  
Tal Ezer ◽  
Sönke Dangendorf

Abstract. A new monthly global sea level reconstruction for 1900–2015 was analyzed and compared with various observations to examine regional variability and trends in the ocean dynamics of the western North Atlantic Ocean and the US East Coast. Proxies of the Gulf Stream (GS) strength in the Mid-Atlantic Bight (GS-MAB) and in the South Atlantic Bight (GS-SAB) were derived from sea level differences across the GS. While decadal oscillations dominate the 116-year record, the analysis showed an unprecedented long period of weakening in the GS flow since the late 1990s. The only other period of long weakening in the record was during the 1960s–1970s, and red noise experiments showed that is very unlikely that those just occurred by chance. Ensemble empirical mode decomposition (EEMD) was used to separate oscillations at different timescales, showing that the low-frequency variability of the GS is connected to the Atlantic Multi-decadal Oscillation (AMO) and the Atlantic Meridional Overturning Circulation (AMOC). The recent weakening of the reconstructed GS-MAB was mostly influenced by weakening of the upper mid-ocean transport component of AMOC as observed by the RAPID measurements for 2005–2015. Comparison between the reconstructed sea level near the coast and tide gauge data for 1927–2015 showed that the reconstruction underestimated observed coastal sea level variability for timescales less than ∼5 years, but lower-frequency variability of coastal sea level was captured very well in both amplitude and phase by the reconstruction. Comparison between the GS-SAB proxy and the observed Florida Current transport for 1982–2015 also showed significant correlations for oscillations with periods longer than ∼5 years. The study demonstrated that despite the coarse horizontal resolution of the global reconstruction (1∘ × 1∘), long-term variations in regional dynamics can be captured quite well, thus making the data useful for studies of long-term variability in other regions as well.


2010 ◽  
Vol 10 (11) ◽  
pp. 2327-2340 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. Casas-Prat ◽  
J. P. Sierra

Abstract. In the context of wave climate variability, long-term alterations in the wave storminess pattern of the Catalan coast (northwestern Mediterranean Sea) are analysed in terms of wave energy content and wave direction, on the basis of wave hindcast data (from 44-year time series). In general, no significant temporal trends are found for annual mean and maximum energy. However, the same analysis carried out separately for different wave directions reveals a remarkable increase in the storm energy of events from the south, which is partly due to a rise in the annual percentage of such storms. A case study of Tarragona Port (on the southern Catalan coast) highlights the importance of including changes in wave direction in the study of potential impacts of climate change. In particular, an increase in the frequency of storms from the south leads to greater agitation inside the Port.


2020 ◽  
Vol 161 ◽  
pp. 103771
Author(s):  
D. Lucio ◽  
A. Tomás ◽  
J.L. Lara ◽  
P. Camus ◽  
I.J. Losada

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